World Heritage

The United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) is an agency that among other things designates places of scientific and cultural significance. Known as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, these areas are broken up in to categories, cultural and natural, or a combination of both. In Japan 14 sites have been designated so far. Italy has the most at 44 followed by Spain and China, with 41 and 35 respectively. America is lower on the list at 20. In total 890 World Heritage Sites exist across the globe as of 2009. All of these designated areas are of “outstanding universal value to humanity,” as the criteria for selection clearly states. Because the UNESCO World Heritage Committee reviews a tentative list of candidate sites on a yearly basis the number continues to grow. For example, in 2000 alone 61 sites gained World Heritage status. By comparison only 13 sites were added last year.

To give you an idea of what places have already qualified, the original list of 12 sites made in 1978 included the Galapagos Islands, Yosemite National Park, the Aachen Cathedral in Germany, and the Historic Center of Krakow, Poland. As more countries ratified UNESCO’s World Cultural and Natural Heritage Treaty the list came to include more prominent locations such as the Pyramids at Giza, the Great Wall of China, and the Taj Mahal. Now practically every renowned monument of antiguity has made the list. Rarely do modern creations qualify though. Some architectural sights like the Sydney Opera House have been selected but Brasilia, Brazil is the only city built in the 20^th century to become a chosen site.

As many sites as there are not every famous place has been designated. For years Japanese activist groups have been campaigning to get Mt. Fuji ready for possible selection in 2011. 10 years ago the mountain failed to meet UNESCO’s criteria, much to the bewilderment of the Japanese people. Mt. Fuji is a symbol of the nation, a magnificent conical stratovolcano isolated along the coast. Moreover, it is the tallest point in a long volcanic archipelago, itself marking the precise spot where three tectonic plates from North America, Eurasia and the Philippines meet. So why then was it unworthy? For one there were hundreds of thousands of pounds of illegally dumped trash scattered around the base. Second, it was not considered unique enough of a place.

At the same time many locals worry about the possibility of Mt. Fuji being chosen. There are fears that World Heritage status will draw considerably more tourists and trash to an area that is already overrun during the summer climbing season. Another concern is that part of UNESCO’s criteria states that a site must be properly maintained and protected to keep its status. This puts pressure on the local community and can conflict directly with certain business practices. Two sites have already been delisted for not upholding UNESCO’S standards. The first was the Arabian Onyx Sanctuary in Oman. After its designation in 1984, poaching and continued habitat degradation severely reduced the local Onyx population, thus warranting the decision made by the World Heritage Committee.

There are currently over 30 sites on the UNESCO World Heritage in danger list. Recently, when I was in India I went to an endangered site called Keoladeo National Park. The park gained World Heritage status in 1985 thanks to the varied flora and fauna in the area, particularly the tens of thousands of water foul that winter there following the annual monsoon season. In recent years however poor rainfall has depleted the park’s wetlands causing a reduction in the number of visiting birds. Because the birds and the surface area of wetlands must both be at a certain number to meet the criteria for UNESCO World Heritage status, Keoladeo has been placed on the in danger list. If park officials cannot find a way to improve the water shortage the park will lose it’s status and with it financial support from the UNESCO World Heritage Fund.

Well, since I am on the topic of World Heritage Sites I couldn't help but look back at all the ones I have visited. They are listed below by country. In the case of buildings I may not have entered and toured all of them per say, but I at the very least saw each one from close by. Here they are:

MEXICO

Historic Center of Mexico City

Prehistoric City of Teotihuacan

UNITED STATES

Carlsbad Caverns National Park

Chaco Culture (Chaco Canyon)

Grand Canyon National Park

Independence Hall

Mesa Verde National Park

Redwood National and State Parks

Pueblo de Taos

Yosemite National Park

CHILE

Churches of Chiloe

Historic Quarter of the seaport of Valparaiso

URUGUAY

Historic Quarter of the city of Colonia del Sacramento

FRANCE

Cathedral of Notre Dame

Banks of the Seine

ITALY

Historic Center of Rome

Historic Center of Naples

Royal Palace at Caserta

PORTUGAL

Monastery of Hieronymites and Belem Tower

Historic Center of Porto

SPAIN

Alhambra

Burgos Cathedral

Historic Center of Cordoba

Escorial Monastery

Works of Antoni Gaudi (Parque Guell, La Sagrada Familia)

Old Town of Segovia

Historic City of Santiago de Compostela

Historic City of Toledo

Old Town of Caceres

Cathedral, Alcazar and Archivo de Indias in Sevilla

Old City of Salamanca

Archeological Ensemble of Merida

Route of Santiago de Compostela

Historic walled town of Cuenca

Old Town of Salamanca

University and Historic Precinct of Alcala de Henares

Aranjuez Cultural Landscape

INDIA

Agra Fort

Fatehpur Sikri

Taj Mahal

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Elephanta Caves

Humayun’s Tomb

Keoladeo National Park

Red Fort

Qutub Minar

JAPAN

Himeji Castle

Historical Village of Shirakawago

Hiroshima Peace Park

Historic Monuments of Ancient Nara

Shrines and Temples of Nikko

Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto

THAILAND

Historic City of Ayutthaya

SOUTH KOREA

Changdeokgung Palace Complex

Jongmyo Shrine

That’s 55 in total. 17 of those I visited in Spain. Having lived in Madrid for a year, I had ample time to tour the many regions of the country and could make side trips to Portugal and Italy where I saw 5 more. At the time I didn't even know I was visiting World Heritage sites. It wasn't until I came to Japan that I really learned what they are. Because the Japanese like to travel and have the money to do so, they make a big deal out of seeing them. Anyhow, Europe is definitely the place to check out World Heritage sites. It has the highest concentration out of the 7 continents.

To take things further I want to list what in my opinion are the most impressive sites I have seen. They are ranked in two separate categories, cultural and natural. I have them ranked from one to three with a description of each site.

Cultural Ranking

1. Basilica of St. Peter and the Vatican (Historical Center of Rome)

The Papal Basilica of St. Peter is the most impressive building I have ever seen. It towers 15 stories high and has a panoramic lookout at the very top of the dome from which all of Rome can be seen. Within the building are incredible sculptures, frescos and other artwork, the most famous of which is Michelangelo’s La Pieta. The expansive interior is bigger than any other Christian church and the basilica stands as the de facto center of Catholicism, the number one religion on the planet.

2. Historic City of Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya was the capital of Siam (modern day Thailand). It flourished for 400 years before falling to the Burmese in the 19^th century. Several ruins were left and later repaired following the area's designation as a World Heritage site in 1981. The Ayutthaya Historic Park currently contains palaces, temples, pagodas, Buddha statues, rivers and lush vegetation. When I went there three years ago I was very impressed by the architecture and size of the buildings. I only wish I had more than a few hours to tour the park because there was so much to see. Incidentally, Ayutthaya does not get the recognition it deserves because it is overshadowed by nearby Ankor Wat.

3. Alcazar of Segovia (Old Town of Segovia)

Segovia is a town in Spain that was once a Roman outpost in the Iberian expanse of the empire. Later it fell to the moors before becoming part of the Kingdom of Castille. The Christian Kings who ruled over Castille erected a large fortress at the end of Segovia's natural promontory. The fortress later became a castle-palace which towered above the surrounding countryside. It is unique in that it was built in a shape similar to the bow of a ship. Two large towers mark the extremes of the castle giving it a daunting appearance. The Alcazar of Segovia is the most impressive castle I have visited, and stands out as a remarkable architectural feat.

Natural Ranking

1. Grand Canyon National Park

277 miles in length, 18 miles in width, over a mile deep and 17 million years in the making, the Grand Canyon is beyond a doubt the greatest geological wonder of the world. I have been to the canyon six times visiting both the South and North Rims. On one occasion I caught a rainstorm take hold in the skies above the canyon and witnessed lightning strike down in to the vast depths that spread forth from the precipice I was standing upon. It was a thing of absolute beauty.

2. Route of Santiago Compostela

The Route of Santiago is a pilgrimage that has existed for over a thousand years from the time that a sheep herder claimed to find the long lost resting place of the Apostle James. Countless devout Christians from throughout Europe came to visit the spot thus establishing routes across the continent. The final leg of the pilgrimage begins in Roncesvalles in the Pyrennes Mountains and spans the north of Spain before ending in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The cathedral is in Santiago near the northwest tip of the Iberian penninsula. Though most people prefer to go on foot I traveled the entire 800km route by bicycle. Along the way the landscape of northern Spain is majestic. At the start of the route near the French border there are small Basque hamlets nestled in misty valleys. The road continues on extending through hilly territory and vast plains. For the most part the rugged path is for pilgrims travelling on foot. It does parallel a few highways and major cities, but mostly winds through small villages and scenic surroundings. Finally it reaches Galicia where Santiago is. That part of Spain is inundated with heavy rain throughout the year. The forests are thick with underbrush and the skies are dark and unpredictable. It all adds up to a wondrous journey that people have been making for centuries.

3. Carlsbad Caverns National Park

The Carlsbad Caverns are a large network of limestone caves located in southeastern New Mexico. Inside the caves there are stalagmites and stalactites that form very large and interesting formations with names like the Witch’s Finger, Rock of Ages and Bashful Elephant. The largest enclosed space in the cave network is the Big Room which can be entered and self toured. While the Carlsbad Caverns are far from being the largest network of caves in the world there are plenty of well lit chambers accessible to the general public. Moreover, the park features an amphitheater outside a natural opening. In summer hundreds of thousands of Mexican Free-tailed bats come flying out at dusk to feed on insects in the surrounding Guadalupe Desert. Their exodus typically lasts up to three hours and is a unique sight to behold.

Before I finish I would like to make an honorable mention. In my many travels I have seen places that I feel are worthy of UNESCO World Heritage status. Some are on the tentative list for future selections. The current list is comprised of over 14,000 locations from more than 100 countries. Surprisingly, the place that stands out most in my mind is not listed. In other words it will not become a nominated site any time in the near future. The place I am talking about is Monument Valley in southern Colorado. The valley is famous for its massive buttes that rise up over 1,000 feet from a wide wind swept basin. Other geological features in the valley include rock spires, broad mesas and natural arch formations. At ground level the sediment is silt sandstone which contains high levels of iron oxide. Thus, the entire valley and surrounding areas are a vivid orange red. Overhead a deep blue desert sky contrasts sharply with the fire colored earth below. Such scale and beauty, in my opinion, is on par with that of the Grand Canyon.

In Conclusion

I am determined to see 100 UNESCO World Heritage sites by the time I’m 40 years old. Since I started traveling again reaching that number has become an obsession. I plan to go to Egypt in spring where I can visit 5 along the Nile River. Seeing them is the focus of the trip. That would bring me up to 60. Then in summer I could visit China and tally up another 6 or 7. For now though I’m stuck at 55. How about you? How many World Heritage Sites have you seen? Here is the official list for reference:

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list

In front of the Tower of Belem

In the Changdeokgung Palace Complex

Feeding the deers in Nara

Posing in front of the Taj Mahal only it cant be seen because of the fog

Posing with friends in Ayutthaya

Cold December

I wanted to take this opportunity to say Merry Christmas to everyone. So Merry Christmas. It may be a bit early but I wish you all a wonderful winter holiday.

I am still here in Japan with a few days left until I depart for India. My flight leaves on the 25^th actually, with a 10 hour stop over in Hong Kong. That means I’ll be spending most of Christmas in Hong Kong. I’ll be with my good friend Dan. The two of us hope to find a nice restaurant where we can enjoy a somewhat Christmasy meal. I’m thinking Peking Duck.  It sure would beat the fried chicken Japanese people get from KFC this time of year.  But even if we can’t find a place that’s worthwhile I still expect to have a splendid feast on the 24^th.  I’ll be hosting a Christmas Eve Dinner at my house. I’m not so sure how many people will come but it should be a festive affair.

To add to the Christmas feel the snows came early this year. We had a 24 hour period of snowfall over the weekend that has yet to melt away. It first started on Friday before lunch, and the students saw it coming down while in class.  They all ran up to the window and shouted with joy. The home room teacher had to remind them that it was still English time to get them to sit back down. However, 45 minutes later, after they finished eating lunch, the kids shuffled outside and played with more energy than usual. I joined in for a game of cops and robbers.

Anyhow, I’m over the snow now. It is nice to look at but to live with it is a pain. My biggest complaint is having to clear the windshield of my car every morning. And even if there is no snow it still frosts over. The weather here is simply that cold. Maybe I sound like a wuss complaining about frost but that is how I am having been raised in Southern California. Anywhere I go and spend a great length of time the weather will be awful by comparison.

I can't tell you how much I miss the mild winters in San Diego. I always have. It would make no difference if I spent one hundred winters here, my feelings would never change. The cold is not for me. I suffer immensely during this time of year. And that is why I am leaving to go somewhere warmer. I only wish my respite was more than two weeks. Upon returning to Japan it will be January, the coldest of all months. Oh how I dread working the third and final semester. My schools have practically no heating. It is so bad that I never take off my jacket. And even then I am shivering. The students look at me and ask why I am so cold. I tell them it is because I am not used to Japanese weather. Then they ask me how many layers of clothing I am wearing. I tell them six. They laugh. Most of them only have on a T-shirt and pull over. I don’t know how they survive like that.

Boy

Takeru is a boy in one of my 6th grade classes at a school I teach at. He appeared about one third of the way in to the the school year. At the time, the homeroom teacher explained that he had been living in Shanghai and could speak Japanese, English and Mandarin. I said hi to him and didn't think much of his arrival. He was just some new kid who happened to be good at English.

Anyhow, as the semester went on I noticed that Takeru did not fit in well. The other students seemed not to like him, and it got to the point where he was becoming ostracized in class. At first I thought maybe it was because he was a little fat and nerdy. But then I realized it had more to do with his way of thinking. Takeru was not like the others. He was simply more open, and more curious than your typical Japanese kid. After having made these observations I didn't give his situation much thought though. 

Well, today at lunch I was scheduled to eat with the 6th graders. A desk in the classroom had been set aside for me. To the left sat Takeru. Hungrier than usual, I sat down and quickly dug in to my meal.

As I was slurping away at my alphabet soup Takeru spoke up. "Which do you like more, America or Japan?" he asked.

"Japan," I lied.

"Yes, Japan is good. The air here is very clean," he nodded.

"I guess so."

"China's air is very dirty."

"Huh?"

"Yes, very dirty. I don't like China's air."

I remembered he had come from China. "You lived in Shanghai right?"

"Yes. And China's air is very dirty. The trees give the clean air, but the China people kill the trees."

"Is that so?"

"China man are very bad. They kill trees and they sell people."

The statement struck me as odd. It gave me the impression the Takeru did not like China. "That's not good." I said. "Why do they do that?"

"Money," he answered rubbing his fingers together. It was an unusual gesture for a boy to give, especially a Japanese boy. (Here in Japan when people give the sign for money it's not done like in America. They make an OK sign, but with the palm facing up.)

"The food in China is not healthy," he continued. "I won't eat China's hamburger."

"I have heard that the food there is questionable."

"China's hamburger has insect. I won't eat them again."

Poor boy. I pictured him at a McDonald's in Shanghai. He was enjoying a BigMac when suddenly a cockroach came crawling out on to his hand. But really, who knows why he said such a thing?

"What else can you tell me that's wrong with China?" I asked him. He gave no reply. Must not have understood, I thought. "What more is bad in China," I asked again.

"The street," he said, "they are very dirty. They have very much...Oh, I forget my English."

"What is it you want to say?"

"Gomi," he said in Japanese.

"You mean trash?"

"Yes, there is very much of it in the street. China's people don't use the trash bin. They are very dirty."

Though the conversation we were having may seem absurd now, I was thoroughly enjoying my chat with Takeru. It was perhaps the first time I had had a full on English conversation while eating with my students. Usually, there's hardly any speaking at all, and when my students and I do converse it's always in Japanese. They simply do not have the language ability to carry a conversation outside their own language. 

"How long were you in China?" I asked.

"12 years."

"Wow, that's a long time." When he said it, It didn't occur to me that Takeru had spent practically his entire life abroad. "You must speak Chinese like a native," I figured.

"Yes, my Chinese is very well."

"Say something for me in Chinese."

"Okay."

"Say 'the streets in China are very dirty.'"

He did just that. And when I heard him speak I almost fell out of my chair laughing. There was a glaring disgust in his voice, as if he was letting fly his true character after having been unable to express it properly in English. I found his unexpected burst of emotion absolutely adorable. Moreover, I could relate to him. There was a time when I too couldn't express my feelings convincingly in a another language.

We continued our chat. And as we were talking something occurred to me. Takeru had been just another student, but because he was trying so hard to use the English he knew, and because he had delighted me with his strange words, and most importantly, because he had made me see a bit of myself in his eyes, I was now viewing him in a different light. How strange I thought. The boy had actually endeared himself towards me. 

On we talked. Our topic had shifted to my failed attempt at learning Chinese in Taipei. I was telling him things I had never told a student before. And poor Takeru, he was making such an effort to hold up his end of the conversation that he had completely forgotten to eat his food. By then the other students had finished up and were putting their plates away. A girl came by, and I watched her as she chided Takeru for still having food on his plate.

He then turned to me and said, "I'm sorry Mr. Phil. I can't talk more. I have to eat.”

McDonalds

I recently discovered on Wikipedia that there exists a Hamburger University, “a 130,000 square foot (12,000 m²) training facility of McDonald's Corporation, located at 2815 Jorie Boulevard in Oak Brook, Illinois, a suburb of Chicago.” So thought provoking was this find that I absolutely needed to write about it.

The Hamburger University is an accredited school that awards graduates a degree in foodservice. It was founded in 1961 by Fred Turner and has grown to educate an annual body of 5,000 students. Over 80,000 men and women have graduated. The current Illinois site was built in 1983 at a cost of $40 million. 6 overseas campuses were later added, one of which is in Tokyo.

Can you believe this school exists? No? Well, it is true. The school has even spawned imitators such as Burger King University in Florida.

And what type of person would go there I wonder? A fry cook extraordinaire? A cashier looking to move up? Or perhaps an overzealous night manager?

For some inexplicable reason I can imagine myself meeting a Hamburger University alumnus at a dinner party. It is a lively affair with people everywhere. As I stand around waiting for the food to be served I strike up a conversation with the gentleman next to me.

“Hey.”

“Hello.”

“How’s it goin’?

"Fine, thank you. Yourself?"

"I’m good. My name’s Phil. Nice to meet you."

"A pleasure to make your acquaintance. Rutherford E. Livingston the third, but please, call me Mr. Livingston."

"Uh…sure. So what do you do for a living Mr. Livingston?"

"I’m a restaurant manager for the leading global foodservice retailer consisting of 31,000+ stores servicing 47 million customers a day. My store alone averages about 4 million in sales while total corporate revenue amounts to nearly 28 billion dollars annually.”

“Wow. Did you have to go to school for that?”

“I did. I attended Hamburger University and graduated summa cum laude, class of ’86, with a masters in Hamburgerology, an emphasis in Affiliate Relations and two major course studies, one in Crew Development, the other Classical Greek. I was also captain of the Lacrosse team the year we beat Yale for the Oswald Cup.”

“That's impressive.”

“I know. Now if you’ll excuse me there are more important people I’d like to talk to. Do have a nice night.”


What pompous arrogance! But could I expect any less from a McElitist? They and their company are on top in this modern age of fast food and convenience.

McDonald's, McDonald's, McDonald's. I kind of have a love hate relationship with the chain. I love the taste of the food but hate the effect it has on my body.

Because of my questionable health I try to avoid eating anything on the menu except for the ice cream. McFlurries happen to be an addiction of mine. It’s pretty hard to conceal the fact when Japan is inundated with McTemptation. I’m serious. Outside stations, in malls, on major roadways, McDonald’s is everywhere. This country has more stores than any other non-US place in the world.
 

Speaking of McDonald's in Japan, I'd like to tell you about Den Fujita. His story is remarkable for it was him who first introduced fast food to Japan.

This tale begins way back in the post war era when Den ran an import shop catering to Americas. The young man marveled at the size and vitality of his foreign customers and attributed this to their victory over the Japanese Imperial War Machine. After closely watching their habits Den realized that Americans ate large quantities of food, especially beef. That he thought was the secret to their success. If Japanese children followed the same diet they too could become strong like Americans. The one problem was that beef was very expensive and unsuitable for most family incomes.

Several years later in 1967 Den was visiting the United States on business. He came across a McDonalds and had a revelation. Fast food was an efficient system that provided beef and other high calorie foods to the general populace at low cost. If the same system could be transferred to Japan it could do the same for Japanese people. McDonalds was the solution Den had been longing for.

Den did his research and arranged to meet with Ray Kroc. In case you don’t know who Ray is he was the former milkshake machine salesman who took control of McDonald’s from the McDonald brothers and later turned it in to a commercial empire the likes of which the world had never seen.

On the fateful day of their meeting the conversation went something like the following:

“So tell me Mr. Fujita, what business do you propose?” asks Ray.

“I am impressed by the success McDonalds makes in America. I think the same success can be made in Japan.”

“And why do you think that?”

“In Japan the people have poor food. They eat fish, vegetables and rice. This does not make them strong. Here in America everyone is big. Japanese want to be big too. They need beef. They want beef. McDonald’s hamburgers can give Japanese what they want. Hamburgers can make Japan strong.”

“I see.”

“Yes. Japan and McDonald’s can benefit from harmonious relationship.”

“Mr. Fujita, I’ll be honest with you. Many men have come in to my office asking to open McDonald’s in Japan but I have had my reservations. I now realize that I was waiting for the right man. You are that man.”

“Really? Thank you. It is great honor,” bows Den.

“I’m giving you a chance because you got passion. I like that.”

“Oh, I am so happy. Thank you. Thank you,” he bows again.

“There is of course a condition.”

“Condition?”

“You will immediately start work on opening a restaurant. That will be the first of 500 store locations I expect built in the next 10 years. Are you the man for the task?”

“Yes, Mr. Kroc. I will make 500 stores. I promise.”

“Very well. We have a deal.”

Den knew that for McDonalds to be successful the first Japanese store needed to attract many customers. He and Ray decided that Tokyo would be the place to start. However, they soon disagreed on what part of the city. Ray believed that the suburbs would be best because that is where McDonald’s thrived most in the United States. Den begged to differ.

“Mr. Kroc. Japan and America are very different. People do not drive cars. They do not gather outside city center. A restaurant in suburbs is a mistake."

“What?! Our stores in the suburbs generate more in sales than our city locations. Profits do not lie," stammers Ray raising an index finger in to the air.

“I understand. But those are sales in America. Japan is not the same. It is a different market. Perhaps we can try a different way.”

“OK. I’m listening.”

“In Tokyo there is a place called Ginza. It is famous for good shopping and fun environment. Many young people go there. They like new fashions and trends. A new store can get attention. If we are to make success, Ginza is the place.”

“Den, you had be better right about this.”

“I will not disappoint Mr. Kroc."

In 1971 Den opened the first McDonald’s in Asia beneath a Mitsukoshi Department store in Ginza. It was an immediate success with many other stores soon following. By 1981 there were well over 500 restaurants. Den Fujita had fulfilled his promise to Ray Kroc.

By 2000 he was also one of the 30 richest men in Japan. Then he died.

End of story.

Den Fujita (1926-2004)

I was delighted to find out about Den and Ray while at a school I was working for a few years back. There were dozens of these manga books on historical figures. Flipping through them in the school library helped me kill time between classes. Den Fujita’s was the most fascinating, so I actually sat down and read it. Now that knowledge has been passed on to you.

One more thing. I came across an interesting quote I'd like to also share. It's from Den around the time he opened his first McDonald’s.

"The reason Japanese people are so short and have yellow skins is because they have eaten nothing but fish and rice for two thousand years…If we eat McDonald's hamburgers and potatoes for a thousand years we will become taller, our skin become white, and our hair blonde."

A pity I won’t live to see the day.