Above It All

Summer Vacation

Vacation came as always. But this year I finished the semester late because I had to work an additional week at a high school. Moreover, I agreed to teach for two weeks at the end of August with my part time employer, the combined total of which cut my vacation in half. that still time enough for me to travel overseas and I had considered going to Bangladesh. But I was worried about the seasonal monsoons and flooding so I bought a ticket to Nepal instead. The trip was as follows.

Always starts here

Kathmandu

The Nepalese capital is in the heart of the Kathmandu valley, an area that has been inhabited for thousands of years. The tribes that settled and remained in the valley became the Newari people. In the 18th century they were conquered by an outside kingdom which spread across the region. This growing Gorkha Kingdom became modern day Nepal and retained its autonomy as a buffer state between India and China. In the 1990's troubled times began when Maoist revolutionaries opposed the monarchy, sparking a 10 year civil war. Then in 2001 the reigning king and his family were assassinated. The king's brother succeeded him but fell out of favor a few years later. A new democratic government emerged. This is where the country now stands.  

Nepalese warriors

Gorkha king

Assassinated royal family

Kathmandu is not a very large city. The locals are a wide mix of ethnicities. One half appears similar to Indians from the south while the other half looks Asiatic like the people from nearby Tibet. The Nepalese language, formerly known as Gorkha, is the national language. In Kathmandu most everyone seems to speak English as well. For this reason I had little trouble communicating with people when asking for help or simply conversing.

While Nepal is home to the Himalaya mountains, the capital is only about 1300m above sea level. The valley has hot and humid summers, while in winter the weather becomes cold, but temperatures do not drop low enough for it to snow. It is a rather temperate climate with steady rain that keeps the entire region green and flush with vegetation. This allows for wet rice agriculture, and terraced fields fill in the foothills around the valley. The locals also farm corn, peanuts and potatoes.

Temple in the city

Pigeon and statue

Overcrowded street

Outdoor vendor

Above Kathmandu

In the center of the city is Thamel, a district which is brimming with hostels, souvenir shops, money changers and travel agencies. Its touristy vibe aside, Thamel is not without its charms. The streets are lively and full of local flavor, and the people are not pushy like in other cities frequented by travelers. They simply offer their services or wares and smile if refused. I decided to spend a few nights there. I indulged in beer and dined at a restaurant with Italian style pizza. The quality of the pizza was surprisingly good when compared to most things I had eaten during my stay. In truth, Nepal was not a country to visit for the food. Other foreigners I met largely agreed. So I went back to the pizza restaurant another two times and even had my last meal there. Then I bought a 5 dollar T-shirt, the one souvenir I allowed myself on the trip.

Souvenirs

The Sights

Before the reign of the Gorkha kingdom, the Newari people had constructed large temple complexes in three areas in the Kathmandu valley. These sites are now called Durbar Squares. Two of them are in the capital and the third is in nearby Bhaktapur. They feature a type of tiered pagoda that is commonly found across Asia, but it is in Nepal where the architectural style supposedly originated.

Brick temple

When I visited the first Durbar Square I paid the entrance fee. But that was the only time. I looked somewhat like a local and soon realized that if I kept my mouth shut no one would ask me for money. That was the case at the two Buddhist stupas in the city. I walked confidently through the gate and the attendants ignored me. Interestingly, the stupas in Nepal have eyes painted on them as well as a golden umbrella on top. They also have Hindu influences, and the two religions are practiced dually by many residents. As for Islam it never took hold in the region because the Muslim Turkic tribes that invaded the Indian subcontinent in the12th century left Nepal alone due to its isolated position in the mountains.

Buddhist stupa

Pigeons everywhere

Dharma wheels

Statue of Hindu god

Durbar square

Local monks

A large Hindu temple is also found in Kathmandu. It is on a river and the locals go there to burn their dead in a religious ceremony. I arrived just in time to see a procession enter the gates. A group of men played loud, upbeat music throughout the ceremony. I watched from across the river and took photos. Soon the ashes of the dead rose into the air and mingled with those from other nearby funeral pyres. Downstream, locals washed in the slow currents of the river. I wondered if they dumped the charred remains of the dead in the water like they do in the Ganges River in Varanasi, India. I didn't stay long enough to find out.

The other place I went sightseeing was Bhaktapur. One of my host's friends offered to take me on the back of his motorcycle. He said it wasn't necessary to wear a helmet but I insisted on having one for the 45 minute ride. Once on the road I noticed that only motorcycle drivers wore them and not their passengers. Luckily, we arrived without incident. The Durbar Square in Bhaktapur and surrounding area has retained an older style of architecture which gave the town a traditional feel. After seeing everything, we rode up a hill to a large statue of Lord Shiva, one of the principal Hindu gods. It was a Friday and many woman had gathered to receive his blessing.

Temple buildings

Burning the dead

Hindu gods

Date at the pond

Making pottery

Paintings for sale

Bhaktapur temple

 Sujit

For most the time I was in Kathmandu I stayed with a family in the suburbs outside the city. I came into contact with them through couchsurfing.com. Sujit was the son and host. The family's house was large enough to accommodate more than one couch surfer at a time. In fact, when I arrived there were already a German couple and Chinese guy staying there. On top of that the family rented out rooms to students who studied at a nearby university. They also kept a beige dog called Momo and a cat whose name I forgot.

Sujit's mother and grandmother were kind enough to prepare food for me each day. It was always the same dish consisting of rice mixed with lentil soup and boiled or pickled vegetables. This was the traditional food of the Nepalese people and they ate it with their right hand. I grew tired of the dish after a few days. One problem was that I became sick from a burger I had eaten off the street. Because the Hindi faith prohibits the consumption of beef, the patty was made of water buffalo. But I think it was the lettuce that did it. The people at the food stand had probably washed it with unfiltered water. In any event I threw up and had the runs. I could hardly get out of bed other than to relieve myself and I completely lost my appetite. Sujit's mother checked up on me often. As did the grandmother. They would come into the room without knocking and feel for fever by touching the side of my face or lower leg. When I was better the two wanted me to eat, but I could not put the mushy rice into my mouth. It reminded me too much of what I had vomited up.

Momo the dog

Traditional dish

Sujit's grandmother

Room at the house

Sujit was 24. He told me he had a brother who was living in England. Sujit too wanted to work overseas and had tried to get a visa for Canada but ultimately failed. I suggested he might try Japan. Many Nepalese live in the country, and most seem to operate Indian food restaurants. As for Kathmandu, I noticed that there were many signs in the city stating, "Study in Japan." It was odd because no signs said, "Study in America," or "Study in Australia." After researching it on the Internet I discovered that they are one of the larger groups in Japan from South East Asia. In addition to being able to qualify for student visas they are also employed in the IT industry.

I met Sujit's friends as well. We drank at a local restaurant where I tried the local rice liquor. It tasted exactly like vodka. We also had beer. None of them would finish the last bit in the bottle. They believed that if they did they would be destined to have only daughters for children. I who did not share in this belief gladly drank it for them. We also ate a lot of buffalo meat and spicy stir fry noodles while sharing stories. I was happy to have the occasion to mingle with locals.

Sujit and friends

Dumplings and beer

Kitripur

As I mentioned before, Sujit's house was outside Kathmandu. The suburb was called Kitripur and it occupied a hillside overlooking the city. I spent a fair amount of time exploring the area. Walking the streets alone, I blended right in. The illusion lasted as long as I did not open my mouth or take out my DSLR camera. What I liked about Kitripur was that it was very local. There were no big stores, but rather a multitude of small mom and pop shops that specialized in a particular service or good. For example, an electronics shop, or a place that did jeans repair. That was how it once was in America too before the big corporations forced most family run businesses to close.

In the afternoon it rained every day for an hour or so after which the temperatures cooled. It was then that the people came outside. The old folk sat in front of their homes while the other adults went shopping for groceries. As for the kids, they played in the streets. Girls jumped rope and boys kicked around a soccer ball. This atmosphere again harkened back to a time in America when people spent more time outdoors socializing in their neighborhoods. Now it seems people prefer to stay in their homes, especially kids who are content to watch TV, play video games or use the Internet.

Apartment buildings

Local festival

Typical Kitripur street

Sujit wasn't working and had plenty of free time. On one occasion we went to a nearby gym. The inside was packed wall to wall with sweaty men who were working out with a high level of intensity. I wanted to appear strong and started with heavy weights. It was a mistake. I became fatigued after only twenty minutes. Sujit had only finished stretching by then, so I tried to continue lifting, but did it half heartedly. At one point some of the guys took off their shirts and posed for pictures. I jumped in and joined them.

Showing off

While in Kitripur I learned that it was the first place the Gorkhas took when invading the Kathmandu valley. In that time it existed as its own city state and had fortifications that made it difficult for the Gorkhas to attack. After several failed attempts they finally succeeded by bribing a guardsman at one of the gates. The Gorkha king, who was furious at the resistance of the Kitripur people, had their ears and noses cut off. It was a cruel decision on his part but such were the times.

Cultural Musings

Whenever I travel to a place for the first time I do not like to read about the destination too much in advance. I would rather experience it without preconceptions and learn by listening to what the locals have to say. After that I can do research on the Internet to fill in the gaps. Writing about the trip helps to put everything together as well which is why I do it. Lastly, it allows me to share the experience with others and document my travels for future reference and reflection.

One thing I learned about Nepalese people is that few of them have ever seen the ocean. It makes sense because they live in a landlocked country and are not able to travel easily. But having grown up next to the coast, this was one thing I could not fathom well. These people I talked to had never smelt sea salt in the air or heard the incessant lapping of waves on a sandy shore. How would that one difference in experience alter a person's outlook in life I wondered.

Lake fishing

Nepalese people, especially the younger generation, seemed to like alcohol. The popular brand is Tuborg, a Danish import I had never heard of before. They also had local brands such as Nepal Ice and Everest. By western standards this alcohol was cheap, but one 750ml bottle cost more than a typical meal at a restaurant. I also got the feeling that many people drank and drove. The rule was that if you were caught you received a fine and a strike on your record. Five strikes and the police would take away your license forever. I reckon that is more lenient than most places. One of Sujit's friends told me he he'd been stopped at a sobriety checkpoint earlier that day and the police officer had accused him of drinking. But it had been the officer who reeked of alcohol.

What more can I say? Nepalese love their country. It is to be expected. However, many want to leave because of limited opportunities. This means traveling overseas to work. The idea is to save money and then return home to start a business or invest. Nepal is still developing so there is certainly a great deal of potential. Tourism for one is rapidly expanding as more and more foreigners visit the country. As one of those tourists I realized how privileged I was to be able to experience their beautiful land and enjoy it on my own terms. Few Nepalese are able to travel outside their country. So while I've seen their cities and eaten their food, the vast majority of them will never go to America. But when I meet other travelers such as Europeans it is not uncommon to meet someone who has been to the States. This imbalance between those who can and can't travel is an example of the great disparity of wealth in the world.

Different way of life

After every trip abroad I return to my work and give a presentation to my Japanese students about the place visited and how things are different in other countries. I try to drill it in their heads that in Japan they are fortunate to have proper housing and access to clean water. That they do not have to worry about many types of disease or annual flooding or political instability.

Speaking of political turmoil, I could have gone on to say the former king and queen of Nepal were murdered in the royal palace, supposedly by their own son who had also died that day, and that many Nepalese believe it was the king's brother who was responsible and got away with it by covering up the truth. But I'd already painted a gray enough picture of Nepal. So in the end I told them that in spite of the difficulties some people endure they still lead meaningful, often happy lives. And we can learn a lot from them and their experiences while coming to appreciate the differences between our cultures and societies. I don't think my words sunk in. When I asked if any of my students wanted to now visit Nepal none said yes.

Pokhara

Nepal does not have many large cities. Pokhara is one of them. On one side of the city is a lake. The pleasant stretch along the water is where the tourists go. I arrived by bus and soon found a hotel. I then set out to explore the area. At this point I wanted to avoid the touristy scene. To get away and into the mountains seemed the obvious choice. At a restaurant I overheard a Japanese tourist talk about how she would embark on a twelve day hike up to Anapura Base Camp in the nearby Himalayas. I didn't have that much time. Originally, I had thought a four or five day hike would be nice, but my illness in Kathmandu had dashed those plans by delaying my arrival in Pokhara.

Rockin' the guitar

In the end I hired a guide and took a hike in the hills. It was only for a day. We rode a bus to the east side of town and took a trail up through small, rural villages. At first the weather was cloudy and I feared it might rain. As we carved our way upward we passed by houses and farms. Locals used the same trail. They minded us little attention and again I was thinking they mistook me for a local. When we reached level ground we entered a lodging area for tourists. The local staff were busy tending to a group of honey bees. Apparently, the insects needed food because recent rains had washed away the jelly substance in their white bee boxes. The staff pulled out the honeycomb racks and lathered them in a type of syrup. At this time a sudden downpour came. I took refuge under a overhang and it just as soon passed.

White river

Honey bees

Butterfly

Rice fields

The skies cleared leaving only a few clouds to the north. Unfortunately, that was the direction of the Himalayas. It would remain like that the entire time I was in Pokhara. The other scenery was pleasant though and I enjoyed the hike. I also had plenty of time to talk with my guide. He told me that prices in Nepal had been going up in recent years. This meant that tourists needed to pay more for lodging, food and tours. However, with a major influx of Chinese now visiting, negotiating prices had become an issue. I nodded while listening. One in every two tourists I had seen in Nepal were Chinese it had seemed, and I knew they were quite frugal when it came to spending. But in contrast to China or India, Nepal is not a country with a strong bargaining culture.

With one more day left in Pokhara I visited a peace pagoda that sat atop a hill overlooking the lake. It did not appear far on the map so I rented a bike and began peddling in its direction. That was a bad idea. The road rose at a brutal incline and I had to walk most the way with the sun beating down on me. When I arrived, I laid down in the shadow of the pagoda and slept to recover my strength. Then it was one swift ride back to town. The descent too was fatiguing because the bike had shitty breaks and I needed to squeeze tight to control my speed. This exertion destroyed my forearms. But I must admit, it was nice to ride with the wind in my hair while being able to gaze at the incredible landscape off to the side of the road. The view was again composed of terraced hillsides and scattered homes. Oh Nepal, how I still miss you.

A walk in the rice

Lake at sunset

Overlooking Pokhara

Peace Pagoda

Tending buffalo

Local kid

Typhoon

Long before ever setting foot in Nepal I had purchased a ticket with Air China. The ticket was cheap, and unsurprisingly, had two transfers. On the way there waiting for the connections wasn't a problem. But on the way back I got stuck in Shanghai. It was not the airline's fault. A typhoon had swept across western Japan and all flights to Osaka were cancelled for the day. By the time I made it to the front of the airline counter the earliest available flight wasn't until two days later.

I had visited Shanghai years before and now felt little desire to see the city again. But at the same time I did not want to just stay in my hotel room. After all, I did need to eat, and unlike in Nepal, local Chinese food is very good. One thing I wanted was ramen. It is interesting because in Japan the quality of a bowl of ramen is based on the broth whereas in China it is the noodles that are most important. The shops make them from scratch, and the place I visited put in twice the amount that I was used to. The bowl was damned delicious and only $1.50.

Chinese style ramen

My hotel was near Century Park. The park was a wide expanse of greenery with ponds and streams. I meandered around taking photos. In some places people were fishing and in other areas they sat on the grass and relaxed. Overhead the sky was clouded and moody. During my stay I also visited the Bund which was opposite Lianzuji, the built up part of the city. The most famous of the area's many skyscrapers is the Oriental Pearl Tower. The crappy weather robbed me of my chance to take exceptional photos, but I did come away with something. That is what a good photographer does. They take the best photos they can regardless of the conditions.

Lotus pond

Typical back street

Oriental Pearl Tower

Lovely couple

Looking Ahead

I have written before that I soon plan to leave Japan. But what I did not mention is that I wanted to do the Peace Boat before then. The Peace Boat is an NGO cruise ship that circumnavigates the world over a period of three months. It makes stops in several ports and promotes causes such as environmentalism, sustainability, and human rights. Well, after returning from Nepal I went to an interview with the Peace Boat in Tokyo. I had applied for an onboard volunteer teaching position to help the Japanese passengers improve their English skills. Those accepted would be able to join a voyage without paying and could thus travel the world for little money. But in the end they did not offer me a position.

I wanted to ride you

I was not that disappointed when I got the rejection e-mail. If anything it was my pride that burned. I mean, I'd really thought I was an ideal applicant. Now I find that my educational background and varied experience are not good enough. The interviewer did write saying few Japanese passengers had applied for the language courses and they hadn't many positions to fill. I'm on a waiting list in the event another class opens up. But I doubt it likely.

The real reason I quickly got over the rejection was because I knew I'd be traveling regardless. So with the Peace Boat now an impossibility I'm looking into what I can do instead. Volunteering is one option. Several organizations offer room and board if a person teaches English in a local community. There is also woofing where a traveller can receive the same by helping out on a farm. These are cost effective means to travel and they also offer an alternative to simply showing up somewhere and rushing through in a short amount time.

At this point I am leaning towards going to Indonesia. It's one of the few countries in East Asia I have yet to visit. After that who knows where I might go or for how long I will travel before returning home to San Diego. The important thing is that I have money saved up and if need be I can gain income anywhere and at anytime doing freelance translation online. Or so I hope.